Wednesday, 28 May 2014

Projects of the Past Issue.1 - HPI RS4/3 Porsche 911 turbo


An introduction...

Recently I set some time aside to browse through some old hard drives on a quest for any residual images of projects past.

Back in the early days of my projects, way before the banana era, I was always guilty of getting caught up in doing things and forgetting to take any pictures. This meant that most projects would be completed and gone before it even dawned on me to take any photos, as to me it was just another everyday thing that I had done and finished.

However, after much searching I have managed to find a few images that were taken and survived numerous drive clear-outs. Some of the images are not as pretty as our Team Banana photos, but they serve their purpose all the same. They were mostly taken on the fly, with basic camera technology of the time, and as a personal record of events rather than being for sharing or viewing by others. All the same, here we go! =D

You will find further Issues from this series in the new "Projects of the Past" tab above in this projects section.




HPI RS4/3 Porsche 911 turbo

Throughout the years I have owned and used many radio control models, sometimes building and modding them to order.

 

In 2003 I decided to modify one of the HPI RS4/3 kits I had laying about as a spare for my track car, and after looking at all the optional extras, I was inspired to add my usual twist. The kit included a Porsche 911 turbo shell, a few HPI upgrades over the standard RS4/3 kits, and was 1:10 scale in size, featuring a .12 nitro engine. It was the Porsche 911 turbo shell that inspired the main goal of the project, that being to make the car as near to the actual Porsche 911 turbo's speed as possible.


The starting point was to acquire all the upgrade parts that I desired for this venture, for which I chose GPM Racing and HPI's after market components. As you can see from the pictures, everything was converted to aluminium, resulting in quite a striking chassis, and fitted oil filled coil over shocks for better handling.

After seeing this chassis in it's pristine glory, I decided the stock engine was not going to cut it, and with some chassis modification later, fitted a .12 Nova Rossi race engine that I had tuned myself. You can see a silver rub mark that the starter box made when I was using this pullstarter-less engine on the chassis.

The Nova Rossi engine was impressive in the test runs, but it just didn't have enough speed, so I fitted the HPI twin speed gear set. With some tweaking, this certainly added some speed into the equation, but I just wanted more. For this I was going to have to change things up a bit.

Some chin rubbing later I clocked the Hyper .21 8-port big block engine on my Hobao Monster Pirate/Ofna Big Foot 1:8 scale monster truck. This engine featured a cooling head that matched the current colour scheme of the project, had a pull starter, making it simpler to use, being bigger naturally had more power, and best of all, I had just finished running it in, so it was ready to be played about with.

Without hesitation I stripped the Hyper .21 8-port down, and proceeded to tune the ports and crankshaft for a nice hike in power. The engine block was drilled for the fitment of a pressure expansion bottle to accommodate for the modifications applied to the crankshaft, and the whole thing was re-assembled, then re-fitted to the monster truck for a second bedding in process.


Engine now ready to use, I had to figure out how it was going to physically and mechanically fit into the chassis that was a whole scale smaller than the donor model. This required more chassis modification, the use of the original Ofna engine mounts, some custom mounting hardware, a custom unlimited aluminium exhaust, and creating my own hybrid clutch system, so that it would interface with the twin speed gearing while handling all the extra power.



Things were running smoothly in the first test run, but catastrophe stuck in the second. With all the additional power and peculiar weighting this car had, not only was it a bit odd to handle but it ended up snapping one of the drive shafts in the rear left wheel, and with it took one of the tie rods.

This chassis is 4WD with 6 drive shafts, so I decided to replace all the drive shafts with heavier duty shafts from Kyosho and Ofna to prevent any further failures, and replaced the snapped tie rod with a shiny new one. I also decided to change the ratio of the gearing now knowing just how much power this engine possessed, and carefully re-tuned the twin speed setup. Then gave some extra thought to the camber and toe-in, to improve handling, compensating for the offset engine weight.

Since everything was now in order, all components were fully committed, and the colour scheme had been established, it was time to finish the body shell. For this I chose an electric blue to magenta pearlescent flip paint, which I applied in two coats with an air brush. This was then backed with a heavy silver flake, to really make it pop, and finished with a nitro-methane proof barrier lacquer to protect it from the fuel. Once it had dried over several days, the polycarbonate body shell was cut out from its vacuum form, required holes were then cut/drilled and the decals were applied. The shell was now ready.

A good few tests runs under the belt, and several test locations later, I had both a place large enough to fully use it, and was ready to get some speed readings underway.

So who better to test the speed of a car than the local traffic police...? My thoughts exactly! =D
Thanks to the cooperation of the local traffic police I was able to get some accurate readings. Unfortunately this car did not reach speeds anywhere near 180+ mph, but it did go 108 mph, which I consider a win, even if the figures are slightly in the wrong order. Furthermore, this car had the exact same 0-60 mph time as its real life counterpart coming in at 3.9 seconds, and that was the final tick in the box for me! =D


























Sadly I no-longer have this car, although it is probably for the best I guess. It would have spent all this time as a shelf queen just collecting dust and nostalgic looks of admiration.

It was sold not long after completing it, and fetched a pretty penny, so hopefully it is still in one piece and has a nice home.

Maybe I will take on another project like this in the future, who knows. =)











Lets try some #hashtags
#teambanana #boonanaj #hpi #gpmracing #gpm #novarossi #ofna #hobao #hyper #radiocontrolled #nitro #1:8 #1:10 #scale #model #upgrade #upgraded #built #diy #modded #custom #oneofakind #glowfuel #mph #mod #fast #porsche #911turbo #turbo #hpirs43 #rs43 #rs4 #car #twotone #flippaint #pimped #shelfqueen #fastest #bluethunder #hashtag #doihaveenoughhashtags #yeah

Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Fixing the ASUS PG221 22" Gaming Monitor


ASUS PG221 22" Gaming Monitor







Recently I fixed the ASUS PG221 gaming monitor, after experiencing some on screen interference, which started to really hinder everyday usage.








This monitor was paired with my UBER PC that I built approximately 10 years ago, a PC that ranked 172nd out of all the millions of PCs in the world that had been benchmarked in Futuremark's 3Dmark 2005.

It was purchased from KustomPCS.co.uk a couple of years after the UBER PC was initially built, and at a nice discount due to the prize money I won after coming third place in KustomPCS' website design competition.
Amazingly the pages related to this are still active, with the competition page being found HERE, and the winners page HERE.



Until recently it has been nothing but reliable, and being packed to the brim with functionality, has served me well.
It was because of this that I decided to repair it, and found that the issue laid with some faulty electrolytic capacitors misbehaving on the power supply board.





 I replaced the entirety of the electrolytic capacitors so that they were all new, and from high quality reliable brands (Panasonic and Rubycon), prolonging the life of the repair.
Doing this drastically reduces the odds of having to reopen the monitor to replace any further capacitors that may fail, as they are now all new, with a similar lifespan.


ASUS PG221 Monitor Repair


As you can see in the video, this monitor is now back up on its own two feet... or singular round foot in this case. =)




Further advice...

This monitor model has always been prone to heat issues, so running it with a 120mm fan hung over the top vents via a custom mount goes a long way to prolonging the life of the monitor, which is something I have been doing myself.

Faulty BGA Nanya Memory Chip

These symptoms can also be caused by a faulty memory chip on the controller board.
This is a square black chip sporting the name NANYA. If this chip is to blame for the fault, careful replacement of this chip or a brand new controller/mainboard is the only solution.





Faulty Inverter Transformer

Another common fault with this monitor is the screen going black after it has been switched on.
This is due to a faulty inverter transformer, and can be solved by replacing the faulty inverter transformer, or by simply replacing the whole power supply board.




If you have been having issues with your ASUS PG221, hopefully you now have some answers, and most of all thanks for reading. =D







 

Thursday, 27 February 2014

The Best DIY Camera Ring Stabilizer...?

@ Gadget Show Live 14 with Ciseco

After seeing the price of commercially available camera ring stabilizers, and noticing how crude and flimsy some of the other diy options were, I decided to make a brand new version of camera stabilization ring with my own Boonana J twist, and may even be the first person in the world to do this... certainly to this standard anyways =)

This is a ring that will give you improved stabilization over the majority of diy options out there, due to its solid construction, high quality materials, and the increased diameter of the stabilization ring, making it mathematically more stable than commercial options.
It offers a very comprehensive and sturdy platform that you can trust to support your expensive camera equipment safely, all whilst giving plenty of scope for bolting on accessories like lighting, screens, mics, and balancing weights to complete your video recording arsenal.

Best of all, this only cost £7 to make, and saved £43- £293 when compared to commercial options! =D

Recently we attended the Gadget Show Live 2014 @ the Birmingham NEC with the Boonana J ring stabilizer. This was combined with one of our kindly donated cameras to capture footage of the event and anything that caught our eyes.

GoPro Staff with the Boonana J Steady Cam
What we hadn't anticipated was the attention this stabilizer would get - talk about a conversation starter!

With interest from a wide range of attending companies such as the GoPro team, Cooler Master, Western Digital, Ciseco (who specialize in arduino and Raspberry PI development / expansion boards and took the photo above), amongst many other companies, and including almost every passer by, not to mention the ones holding cameras!



GoPro Staff with the Boonana J Steady Cam




 We can officially say that not only does this device perform, but when built to this standard will also be a bit of a show stopper =D









To build one of these yourself, check out the videos below, and if you do make one, be sure to reference where you found it - In fact, why not tweet or facebook a pic of yours to us, we'd love to see them! =)


Part 1



Part 2



Part 3



Part 4






Thursday, 9 January 2014

Improving the Bowers & Wilkins C5 in-earphones

Here are the videos to date of the Bowers & Wilkins C5 mod series, where I am improving the lower end of the sound stage for Great Bass Justice .

This is also a good comparisons between the old camera, and the new HD camera kindly donated to us!


Part 1.5



Part 1

Jack to RCA cable Boonana J style

In this video I'm making a high quality cable to connect the Brennan MP3 stack unit, to a Roksan Kandy Amplifier.


Monday, 6 January 2014

Audiophile Interconnects


Some of the Audiophile RCA interconnects I've made.
  • Cryogenically treated for a denser copper crystalline structure, improving electron flow.
  • Hand braided for lossless, interference free audio transfer.
  • Oxygen-free solid core beryllium copper, offering superior conductance and minimal resistance over standard copper.
  • 24k Gold Neutrik RCA plugs, for improved connectivity and electron flow.
  • Audio grade silver solder joints, offering a clean low resistance union.
  • Protective sleeve does not contact internal wires, allowing air to flow around cores, for a cleaner quality of sound, untainted by the insulation material of the cables.
  • White bands on RCA connectors indicate which end should always be connected to the amplifier side to maintain mono-directional burn in.





Ibanez getting the Bare Knuckle treatment


Upgrading an Ibanez RG with the hand wound Miracle Man Humbucker pickups from Bare Knuckle Pickups FTW.